![]() SIDE NOTE: If you have issues with a board staying in place, you can cut spacers to help the boards from bowing together. Repeat this process until the form is complete. Then, attach the board to the stakes using clamps and screws. Continue installing stakes in the same way for the length of one strip of board. Place the spacing template against the already installed form then, place a stake where the template ends. Begin by using your spacing template (a board the size of the desired concrete border plus the size of your form material, 1/4″ or 1/2″). Now you are ready to place the form for the other side of the layout. This way, you can install another board on the same stake. When you are at the end of a board, place a stake where the board will be in the middle of the stake. SIDE NOTE: You should use more stakes around turns to properly secure the form.Ĭontinue placing stakes along the layout and secure the board to the stake. You should place as many as needed to keep the form within the layout. If you are using a 1/4″ strip, you will want a stake about every foot for 1/2″ material, about every two feet. The length of your strips will determine how far apart you will space the stakes. TIP: You may need to use a 90-degree drill attachment. You will need to remove the clamp for one screw. Secure the board to the stake using two screws, one toward the bottom and one toward the top. Clamp the wood to the stake, making sure the end of the board hits the beginning of where you want the edging and the top of the board is level with the top of the stake. Then, place the first strip of wood into the trench. ![]() You will hammer the stake into the ground so that the top of the stake is level with the ground. Place a 12″ stake at the beginning of one side of the trench. Once the strips are cut, you can start assembling your form. SIDE NOTE: Use a stake if you do not have a scrap board. For example, if you want your edging to be 4” and you are using a 1/2” material, your template would be 4-1/2”. This template should be the width of the edging plus the size of your wood material (1/4″ or 1/2″). If you’re not sure what that is, see my post about how to use a rip-cut for a circular saw.Īnd while you have the saw out, prepare a spacing template to ensure a uniform gap, I used one of the wood stakes. TIP: If you are using a circular saw to cut the sheet, use a ‘rip-cut’ to make the process easier. SIDE NOTE: The 3-7/8″ is factoring in a 1/8″ blade cut. You will get twelve 8-foot strips per sheet. Start by cutting a 1/4″ or 1/2″ sheet into 3-7/8″ strips. The boards that you will use to create the form will also need a place to anchor to (wooden stakes). Now that the trench is dug, you can build your concrete form to hold the concrete until it is set. TIP: Try to make the sides of the trench as vertical as you can, not angled. SIDE NOTE: This is when a tarp and wheelbarrow come in handy to collect and cart off the dirt and grass. Once you have the shape and length you want for your concrete border, use a trenching shovel to dig along with the design, on both the inside and outside of the border.Īfter you have dug along with the layout, excavate the dirt and grass inside this area until you have a 4″ deep trench. This is how wide you need the gap between your border and the dirt. Take the width of the edging and add 2″ (if you’re using 2×4’s, add 4.5″). You also need to factor in the width of the material you will use to hold the wet concrete together. This gap will represent the width of your edging. ![]() We used string with wooden stakes.Īfter you have placed one side of the layout, add a gap and lay out the other side of the border. You can set the design by using your garden hose or string. To start your concrete edging project, draw a plan of exactly where the edging will be in your garden. I am also completing this project with the least amount of tools needed to help save on the cost. There are probably techniques to make the process even easier. SIDE NOTE: This is my first time doing any concrete work.
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